Saturday, March 30, 2013

You'd Think the Pope would have a Finished Basement

As we commenced day 2 in the beautiful ancient city of Rome, the sun finally graced us with its presence for what seemed like the first time since I've been in Europe! Invigorated by this strange feeling called warmth, Rachel and I made our way towards Termini station for the second day in a row to catch the metro to San Pietro for our Scavi Tour. I was still in awe of everything around me and found myself trying to learn how to pronounce things by listening to the stops announced on the subway. We were doing pretty well on time when we pulled into the Ottaviano stop just outside the Vatican walls so we decided to get some food. Fun fact: panino is the Italian word for sandwich. If you say panini you are asking for multiple sandwiches. This was good to know as I placed my order and began enjoying my first Italian Italian sub in the shade of the colonnade of St. Peter's Square.

When it was time for us to check in for our tour we went over to the special permission security line where a Swiss Guard directed us along the side of the basilica. The whole time I was in Rome I could never get over how impressively beautiful it all is. Unfortunately we were once again the only people who read our tickets in the email, but this time it didn't work in our favor as we didn't bring our cameras past the security checkpoint while everyone else was taking pictures of the statues embedded in the side of St. Peter's. As our tour guide started on the route down under the basilica, we saw several ancient tombs that had been incredibly well preserved with mosaics on the ground and ceilings to depict who all was buried there. We also saw what probably would have been administrative offices for the circus that was built just to the side of where St. Peter's now sits. Our guide started explaining to us how these excavations were done so carefully seeing as a rather heavy basilica still needed to be supported above it and that many of the walls of these tombs help support the building we see from the square. We continued along on our tour until we finally came to the tomb of St. Peter. Due to the tight spaces we had to stay about 7-8 feet away where we could see a light (electric, not celestial, people. don't get too excited) emanating from where the bones of the first Pope lie. As we went around the tomb, we came to a small chapel that had once been blocked off exclusively for papal use, but recently opened up for Scavi Tours. This chapel was absolutely breathtaking. Nearly everything from the ceiling to the walls was artistically gilded in gold and the altar stood a mere 10 feet from the tomb. Through another door was a small viewing room where you could actually see the jaw bone of St. Peter! Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take pictures, but just being able to be in the presence of all this was pretty amazing to say the least. After saying a quick prayer, we exited the chapel and walked along yet another beautiful corridor that had chapels dedicated to countries all over the world branching off left and right. Normally this is where the tour would end but seeing as our guide didn't have anything better to do, he continued on to show us more tombs of deceased popes and explained how and why their tombs would be moved about.

When we finally exited the lower levels of St. Peter's, our guide informed us that it was almost 5 o'clock and mass would be starting soon in the basilica. How convenient. Seeing as we were already past security we just wandered on in and went up to a barrier that was keeping most people back and told the guy we were here for mass. He allowed us right through and we had seats about 15 rows back from the altar at St. Peter's! Mass was all in Italian, but I was able to follow along with Rachel only having to translate the homily for me. After mass most people just left, but Rachel and I decided to take advantage of having the place to ourselves before it was opened up to the public again to take some pictures








As we exited the basilica and started thinking about where we would be going for dinner, there was music playing throughout the square and a crowd had gathered in front of one of the large screens placed near the steps to the basilica. Apparently Papa Francesco was having his mass for the cardinals in the Sistine Chapel and he was just genuflecting to kiss the altar when I made it to the screen.




When we finally left San Pietro, we started making our way towards Pizzaria Da Remo. Regarded by both Rachel and our friend Cameron as "the most amazing pizza you will ever eat." We took some twists and turns on our way to finding the place but after stopping inside a random church with a beautiful courtyard and slowly circling in on our target we made it. We arrived at around 7:20 and were immediately seated. We had a whole room to ourselves and I gave Rachel a look like "Really? I thought you said we'd be lucky to get a table." I should have just waited 30 seconds to make my judgement as that was all the time it took for the place to be filled wall to wall with hungry locals. When we were handed our menus, I was bamboozled. I couldn't even manage to make out which section was the drinks despite knowing which words to look for. Fortunately Rachel was on top of it so I didn't have to resort to miming. It didn't take long for me to look like a fool tho as I picked up my bruschetta to take a bite and all the tomatoes came tumbling down. I quickly ate them all up as I was starving, but after our dinner Rachel informed me the couple next to us was talking about us in Italian for a decent part of the night trying to figure out if we were foreign. My eating habits managed to confirm it for them but I have no shame! When our pizza came I could tell just by looking at it that it was going to be delicious. Using a fork and knife I tried to move as quickly as I could to get a piece in my mouth and when I finally did I couldn't believe what I was tasting. There's a reason the Italians are famous for their pizza and I'm so glad I was able to discover it for myself at Da Remo!



Our night was only beginning with the pizza tho as we made our way out to several other favorite spots Rachel had come across in her time abroad. One of my favorite things about Rome is how the old and the new fit so well together side by side. I also thoroughly enjoy how things can exist there simply because they look nice and they don't have to have any sort of monetary purpose. This was the case at Piazza Del Popolo as it was a large open space right in the middle of the street that served as the center of a roundabout. Since it was night we were able to have most of the place for ourselves to marvel at the statues and fountains on either end of the piazza.





As we proceeded eastward our next stop was the Spanish Steps. We managed to arrive right around the same time the cops did as there appeared to be some sort of demonstration going on at the base of the steps. Fortunately most of the deviants scattered and we were able to move about unobstructed. That is except for the Italian rose peddler (shout out to Cameron the Pun Master Pywell) who came up to Rachel and offered "a flower for his love." Upon finding out I wasn't holding her hand because I was too nervous to cross the street without a grown up, he tried to spin it off like he was providing the flower as a favor to me and of course wanted compensation. Nice try sir! My woman already has Fr. Garrett, the Great Bambini and Bamboozled as plants to keep her company back home! She doesn't need to be over vegetated! Upon reaching the top, we were greeted with quite the pleasant view of which I shall provide photographic evidence.



Finally we were able to make it over to one of the most beautiful attractions in Roma, Fontana di Trevi. As we walked around, we decided to get some gelato and grab some seats off to the side of the fountain due to the crowds. We quickly found out it was middle school date night at the fountain and I couldn't help but judge all of them. In a culture that is known for making things pleasing to the eye, it was a lot more clear why the younger generation is disliked here than it is anywhere else. These kids roll up in sweat pants and mohawks with the girls thinking that for some reason it is cute to shave a random bald spot in their hair. This may all have been fine if they had not decided to crowd around us and eventually almost sit in our laps as they continued loudly blabbering about what I'm sure must have been a bunch of things similar to what I thought was just the coolest back when I was an ass of a seventh grader. At one point I turned to Rachel and said "Where is a random pop star when you need one? I really wish there could just be a distraction so all these people would clear out for a bit." Wish granted. A few minutes later a bit of an uproar from the other side of the fountain grabbed everyone's attention as a man was proposing to his girl friend. Everyone ran over there to get a better view of the proceedings. Guess who the two people were at the fountain that only saw this as an opportunity for private fountain pics?





We returned yet again to our hostel after a long night of culinary brilliance and artistic beauty. Part of me was even beginning to wish I had picked Rome to study in seeing as it was almost impossible to be bored. With the great weather it was easy to just walk about and find new hidden gems scattered throughout the city. I know I already said it but it never ceases to amaze me how you can see things like Fontana di Trevi right next to modern clothing stores and other 21st century locales. I could only hope the next day would be as fruitful.

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